Driving around the southernmost part of the island, we came to strange and desolate places with old stone quarries and grey, stone-strewn hills, ending up in a southern tip of high cliffs and something military. As we turned the car around we saw a sea eagle circling over the cliffs, chased by a group of lesser sea birds. This area being otherwise so flat, it was most unexpected to see an eagle. We went into a minimalist church - sandstone with a wooden roof and very striking. It turned out to be from the 1200s mostly and was beautifully painted inside with lime. Some of the motifs looked really ancient, but some were from the 1600s. Everywhere we looked the buildings were beautiful and though they are mostly in stone they are often painted white. There is a lightness of touch here; a lightness of atmosphere. One cannot imagine anyone here being sad, even though there always is sadness and death.

Everywhere you look there are rabbit warrens and the rabbits are so small and round and cuddly they surely are the bunniest bunnies I've ever seen. The sky is full of larksong and surfmurmur.